I think this first coat needs to be the heaviest to make sure there is plenty of that Fluid Film "creep" which makes it so good at protecting places you can't reach or even see. I plan on putting some along the bottom edge of the inside of the doors and tailgate next time the panels are off. Spray behind the fenders and in the wheel wells. I suggest you open the hood as there are parts of the frame only accessible from the engine compartment. I stayed away from the exhaust (that will stink), the plastic bed & fuel tank (a waste of Fluid Film), the drivetrain (didn't want to attract dirt to those parts), and the brakes. Again, how much heat your bottle can take without melting may vary. You will have to occasionally stop to reheat your spray bottle. Once I got the temperature/spray pattern the way I wanted it, I parked the truck in the grass to keep overspray off the driveway, and just started spraying the frame and body. As the Fluid Film changes temperature it will spray differently from your sprayer. Speaking of my spray bottle, I used a "horse sprayer" purchased at the same shop I bought the Fluid Film from:Ī disposable old Windex spray bottle may work, but I suspect it won't take as much heat as this reusable version will. I suggest you try it as soon as it's warm enough to pour through a funnel into your spray bottle if that isn't thin enough to spray then dunk the bottle into the hot water to get the Fluid Film warmer. I got it warm enough to flow like tomato soup, but not so warm as to melt the bottle or it's pump. I wish I could tell you exactly how warm to get the Fluid Film, but I just don't know. If you try something different feel free to post what did or didn't work. I believe you could use an electric hot plate, electric stove, heat gun, potpourri heater.whatever you got. I don't have pictures of the entire process (give me a break, my hands were full), but I do have: I used an disposable container to scoop some Fluid Film into a rusty old pot and then dipped that pot into the hot water. You could dunk the entire gallon can of Fluid Film into the hot water, but since you don't need that much, a smaller amount is easier. Gotta be careful pulling this out and taking it e heat proof gloves or pads. Hot water was my source of heat for warming the Fluid Film I took a large Pyrex bowl from the kitchen, filled it with water and placed it in the microwave until it boiled. Surprisingly, Fluid Film thins nicely when warm and doesn't require much heat to spray from a handheld spray bottle. I had neither of those so I tried a different method: warming it up. I have read that you can apply it with spray guns made for household paint (like those electric Wagner sprayers) or undercoating guns*. Fluid Film is thick and clingy, similar to Vaseline, which makes it great for rustproofing, but difficult to spray: I felt that spreading it with a brush would take too long and would not get into as many nooks and crannies as a spray could get. Bob Smith from Kellsport Products is offering TW members a really nice discount:Ĭlick to expand.To apply, you can spray it or spread it with a brush. I got mine from a local lawn mower supply/feed store but there are plenty of sources online including. But since it was significantly cheaper in the gallon can, that's what I bought. Of course the easiest way to apply Fluid Film would be to buy a bunch of the aerosol cans and go to town. After allowing the paint to completely dry you can finally start on the Fluid Film application. Before any painting you want to put down a drop cloth to keep drips of paint off the driveway. I used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating*. This is also a good time to protect fully boxed in section of your frame it's not easy but if you are going to do it, do it now before you apply the Fluid Film. I then gave these areas a shot of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator* in flat black on the frame, silver on the floor boards. Then I wiped that area with a denim rag (you want something tough that won't fall apart) that was wet with Prep All* to remove contaminants so I had a good surface for the new paint. I used a wire brush to knock off the loose paint and surface rust. If you already have light rust spots on your frame or floorboards that you want to deal with, now is the time to do it. Use high pressure, try to blast out any places that sand and dirt accumulate, and let it dry at least overnight. I use a long reach, water wand type sprayer*. The first thing you should do is thoroughly wash the underside of your truck. If you know of other places the 2nd Gen Tacoma tends to rust, please add your experience to this thread: 2nd Gen potential rust I'm writing this simply to explain how I applied Fluid Film to the frame from the one gallon can. There has been many discussions on how to make the Tacoma frame more rust proof/rust resistance.and many opinions/arguments on what is best.
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